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New Zealand is one of the best countries in the world to explore by car. You can wake up on a beach, have lunch next to a lake, and be in the mountains by sunset. But while the roads are beautiful, they can also catch overseas drivers by surprise. Many backpackers come from countries with different road rules, flatter terrain, and wider highways. Before you hit the road, here are some of the biggest things to watch out for. Drive on the Left Let's start with the obvious one. In New Zealand, we drive on the left-hand side of the road. This sounds simple, but it's one of the biggest causes of accidents involving overseas visitors. The risk is highest when: Pulling out of a car park Entering an empty road Making turns at intersections Driving after a long day on the road A good habit is to remind yourself: "Keep left, keep left, keep left." It might feel strange for the first few days, but you'll quickly get used to it. One-Lane Bridges You'll find one-lane bridges all over New Zealand, especially in rural areas and on the South Island. As the name suggests, these bridges are only wide enough for one direction of traffic at a time. Before crossing, look for the signs at each end of the bridge. The signs will tell you: Whether you have priority Whether the oncoming vehicle has priority Or whether neither direction has priority If you're unsure, slow down and let the other vehicle go first. Losing ten seconds is better than having an awkward standoff in the middle of a bridge. Roundabouts Can Be Confusing If you're not used to roundabouts, take your time. The golden rule is: Give way to traffic already on the roundabout. Also remember to indicate correctly: Signal left when exiting at the first exit. Signal right if turning right. Signal left just before leaving the roundabout. Many backpackers find New Zealand's roundabouts easier than traffic lights once they get the hang of them. Gravel Roads Are More Common Than You Think Not every road in New Zealand is sealed. If you're heading to remote beaches, DOC campsites, hiking tracks, or scenic lookouts, you'll often encounter gravel roads. When driving on gravel: Slow down Increase your following distance Avoid sudden steering inputs Brake gently Gravel roads can become extremely slippery after rain. Your stopping distance will be much longer than on normal tarmac. Passing Lanes Don't Last Long New Zealand highways are rarely huge multi-lane motorways. Most long-distance routes are single carriageways with occasional passing lanes. These are short sections where slower vehicles keep left while faster traffic overtakes. When a passing lane appears: Don't speed up if you're being overtaken Stay left if you're driving slowly Overtake quickly and safely if needed My personal tip for backpackers who are new to New Zealand roads: I usually skip the first passing lane if I'm not completely comfortable with the road, traffic, or how the car is performing. I'd rather wait for the next opportunity and make sure I have plenty of room. As a rough rule of thumb, count to 10 as that is usually enough time to complete the overtake safely while having a comfortable gap afterwards. If I'm unsure, I simply stay behind and wait for the next passing lane. There's no shame in taking your time on unfamiliar roads. Before moving out: Check your mirrors and blind spot. Indicate right early so the driver ahead knows your intentions. Some drivers appreciate a quick headlight flash, especially on quieter roads, but don't rely on it as a substitute for proper signalling. Commit to the manoeuvre and maintain a steady speed. Move back left once you can clearly see the overtaken vehicle in your rear-view mirror. Remember, there's no prize for overtaking every slow vehicle you encounter. If you're unsure, stay patient and wait for the next passing lane. A few extra minutes is far better than taking risks on unfamiliar roads. Railway Crossings Not all railway crossings have barriers. When approaching a crossing: Slow down Check both directions Obey all warning signs and lights Trains move much faster than they appear, especially in rural areas. Watch Out for New Zealand's "Hilly" Roads One thing that surprises many backpackers is just how hilly New Zealand can be. On the map, a route might look short. In reality, it could involve winding mountain roads, steep climbs, and sharp corners. A 100 km drive in New Zealand often takes much longer than a 100 km drive in larger countries with flat highways. Always allow extra travel time and avoid driving when you're tired. Winter Driving: Things Can Get Serious Quickly If you're travelling between May and September, especially on the South Island, winter driving deserves extra respect. Black Ice Black ice is one of the biggest dangers on New Zealand roads. It's a thin layer of ice that's almost invisible and often looks just like a wet road surface. Black ice is most common: Early in the morning At night In shaded areas On bridges In mountain regions If you hit ice: Stay calm Avoid sudden braking Keep the steering wheel steady Let the vehicle slow naturally Mountain Passes Some of New Zealand's most beautiful roads are also the most challenging. Popular routes such as: Arthur's Pass Lindis Pass Crown Range Road can experience snow, ice, fog, and high winds during winter. Road conditions can change within hours, so never assume yesterday's weather is today's weather. Snow Chains If you're travelling through alpine regions during winter, carrying snow chains is a smart idea, even if you never end up using them. Budget around $80 for a pair of snow chains. You can usually find entry-level sets at stores like Bunnings or Mitre 10 for around this price, while premium chains for larger vehicles can cost significantly more. - Before leaving: Make sure the chains fit your tyre size Learn how to install them Practice once in daylight Trying to fit chains for the first time on the side of a freezing mountain road is not fun. Check the Weather Before Every Long Drive New Zealand weather is famous for changing quickly, always check MetService if you're unsure. Before setting off, check: Rain forecasts Strong wind warnings Snow forecasts Frost warnings A route that looks perfectly safe in the morning can become challenging by the afternoon. Check for Road Closures Before travelling through mountain regions or remote areas, check for road alerts and closures. Heavy rain, slips, flooding, snow, and accidents can occasionally shut roads for hours. Getting stuck isn't usually dangerous, but it can completely derail your travel plans if you're on a tight schedule. Final Thoughts Driving around New Zealand is one of the best ways to see the country. You'll discover places that buses never reach and have the freedom to travel at your own pace. But don't underestimate the roads. Between one-lane bridges, winding mountain passes, gravel roads, sudden weather changes, and winter driving conditions, New Zealand can be very different from what many backpackers are used to. Take your time, plan ahead, drive to the conditions, and you'll have an unforgettable Kiwi road trip for all the right reasons.  

If you're reading this because you've got a flat tyre right now, take a deep breath. Changing a tyre isn't difficult, but doing it safely is what matters. I've changed tyres in driveways, carparks, and unfortunately a few times on the side of New Zealand roads. The process is actually quite simple once you understand the order of operations. First Things First: Don't Become a Roadside Statistic The most dangerous part of changing a tyre isn't lifting the car. It's standing beside it. The moment you realise you have a flat tyre: Turn your hazard lights on. Slow down gradually. Find a safe place to stop. Get as far away from traffic as possible. If I'm on a motorway or busy state highway, I'll often continue driving slowly to the next off-ramp, service station, or side road rather than stopping immediately on a narrow shoulder. I'd rather replace a damaged tyre than have trucks flying past me a metre away.   Quick Checklist Before lifting the vehicle: Hazards on Safe location Handbrake applied Vehicle in Park or first gear Wheel chocks in place Wheel nuts loosened Before driving away: Spare tyre fitted Wheel nuts tightened Jack removed Tools packed away Flat tyre secured   Step 1: Secure the Vehicle Put the vehicle in: Park if it's an automatic. First gear if it's a manual. I always leave manual vehicles in first gear because it adds another layer of protection against the car rolling. Unlike an automatic, a manual doesn't have a Park setting, so leaving it in gear helps the engine resist movement if the handbrake isn't holding perfectly. This is especially important in New Zealand. We have plenty of steep driveways, hilly suburbs, winding backroads, and rural roads that aren't exactly flat. Even if you've done your best to find a safe place to stop, there's a good chance you'll still end up changing a tyre on a slight slope. The last thing you want is a vehicle starting to roll while it's halfway up on a jack. Apply the handbrake firmly. If you've got wheel chocks, use them. If not, a decent-sized rock behind one of the wheels works surprisingly well. Quick tip: If you're parked facing downhill, place the chock behind a rear wheel. If you're facing uphill, place it behind a front wheel. The goal is to stop the vehicle from rolling in whichever direction gravity wants to take it. The goal is simple: make sure the vehicle cannot move while you're changing the tyre. When it comes to lifting a vehicle off the ground, I'd much rather have three layers of protection (gear, handbrake and wheel chocks) than rely on just one.   Step 2: Grab Your Tools You'll need: Spare tyre Jack Wheel brace (lug wrench) Lock nut key (if fitted) One thing I've learned is that manufacturers love hiding these things in different places. Some are under the boot floor, some sit behind trim panels, and some SUVs store them underneath the vehicle entirely. The best time to learn where everything is isn't when you're stuck on the side of SH1 in the rain. Spend five minutes one weekend locating everything and making sure it's actually there. Quick tip: If you've recently bought a used car, physically check that the spare tyre, jack, wheel brace and locking wheel nut key are included. You'd be amazed how many aren't.   Step 3: Loosen the Wheel Nuts First This is the biggest mistake people make. Do not jack the vehicle up yet. Before lifting anything, crack the wheel nuts loose while the tyre is still touching the ground. After changing more tyres than I'd like to admit, I've found this makes life significantly easier. Once the wheel is off the ground it wants to rotate, making stubborn wheel nuts much harder to remove. Only loosen them about a quarter turn. Don't remove them completely yet. Quick tip: If they're ridiculously tight, carefully use your body weight on the wheel brace. Many tyre shops still over-tighten wheel nuts with impact guns.   Step 4: Position the Jack Locate the correct jacking point in your owner's manual. Place the jack underneath and slowly raise the vehicle until the flat tyre is just clear of the ground. If you're parked on gravel or soft ground, I like putting a flat piece of wood underneath the jack to stop it sinking. Important: Never put any part of your body underneath a vehicle that is supported only by a jack.   Step 5: Remove the Flat Tyre Now remove the wheel nuts completely. Place them somewhere safe where they can't roll away. Pull the wheel straight towards you and remove it. Quick tip: If the wheel has seized itself onto the hub, give the tyre a solid kick with the sole of your shoe. Years of New Zealand weather can make them stick surprisingly well.   Step 6: Install the Spare Lift the spare tyre onto the wheel studs and slide it into place. Thread all wheel nuts on by hand. I always tighten them in a star pattern rather than going around the wheel in a circle. This helps centre the wheel properly and ensures even pressure. At this stage I only snug them up enough to hold the wheel in place.   Step 7: Lower the Vehicle Carefully lower the vehicle until the tyre touches the ground. Remove the jack. Now do the final tightening of the wheel nuts. One thing I've learned over the years is not to fully tighten wheel nuts while the vehicle is still sitting on the jack. I'll snug them up first, lower the vehicle, then do the final tightening once the weight of the vehicle is back on the wheel.   Step 8: Pack Everything Away Put away: Flat tyre Jack Wheel brace Locking wheel nut key I always do a final walk-around before driving off. I've seen people (myself included) leave behind wheel braces, wheel nuts and even entire jacks.   What If You Don't Have a Spare Tyre? This is becoming increasingly common. Many modern vehicles, especially hybrids and EVs, come with: Tyre repair foam Inflator kit Compressor instead of a spare wheel. Personally, I'm not a huge fan of relying solely on repair kits. They're great for small punctures but useless if you've destroyed a sidewall or hit a pothole hard enough to damage the tyre.   Why You Should Own a Spare Wheel If your car didn't come with a spare, I strongly recommend getting one. For safety reasons, I'd buy a new spare wheel assembly rather than hunting through Facebook Marketplace for the cheapest used one. The reality is that spare tyres are already inexpensive compared to the inconvenience of being stranded. Typical NZ pricing: New space saver spare: roughly $165 to $300+ depending on vehicle Used space saver spare: often $50 to $150 on Trade Me OEM-specific space savers: often $180 to $375+ Where I'd Buy One In New Zealand I'd start with: Local wreckers (to identify the correct fitment) Bunnings, Mitre10, SuperCheapAuto Trade Me Dealership parts departments Specialist wheel suppliers If the price difference between a used and new spare is only $50 to $100, I'd personally buy new every time. A spare tyre is emergency equipment. It's not something I want to discover is cracked or perished when I actually need it. If Your Car Didn't Come With a Jack This also happens more often than you'd think. Fortunately, basic scissor jacks are very affordable. Typical NZ pricing: Supercheap Auto 1200kg Scissor Jack: about $82 Repco Mechpro 1200kg Scissor Jack: about $67 Trade Me generic scissor jacks: around $30 to $60 Personally, I wouldn't cheap out here either. A quality jack from Repco or Supercheap is hardly expensive and it's literally supporting a vehicle above the ground. Driving on a Space Saver Tyre A space saver tyre is designed to get you home or to a tyre shop. Most manufacturers recommend: Maximum speed: 80 km/h Short-distance use only If I fit a space saver, I'm heading straight to have the damaged tyre repaired or replaced. My Recommended Emergency Kit (Budget-friendly edition) Every vehicle I own has: Spare tyre Jack Wheel brace LED torch (although a phone strapped to a metal water bottle can double as a hands-free flashlight. Just bite the tethered cap strap and point the light wherever you look) Reflective warning triangle (place them about 45 metres or roughly 60 paces behind your car on the same side of the road) Small piece of plywood for the jack (my personal preference and usually only for long road trips) They take up almost no space and has saved me multiple headaches over the years. Total costs: 1. Budget setup (mostly second-hand): $75-$240 2. Everything brand new: $230-$610+   Always Remember Most tyre changes are straightforward. The biggest mistake people make isn't mechanical, it's rushing. Take your time, stay visible, work safely, and don't be afraid to call roadside assistance if the location feels dangerous. A tyre can be replaced. You can't.

For backpackers and working holiday travellers, buying a cheap and reliable car is often the most affordable way to explore New Zealand. A smart vehicle purchase can save you thousands compared to long-term rentals, while giving you the freedom to discover everything from Northland beaches to South Island mountains at your own pace. In this guide, we'll show you the best budget-friendly cars, how to minimise ownership costs, and how to sell your vehicle before leaving New Zealand. Why Buying a Car Beats Renting: Sleeping in the car is another way travellers reduce accommodation costs, and it's a strategy used widely by those exploring New Zealand over an extended period. Anyone doing this on a regular basis will find that a considered setup makes a meaningful difference to comfort and reliability. Vehicle choice is the starting point. A spacious, affordable compact SUV — Japanese-made models such as the Toyota RAV4, Honda CR-V, or Subaru Forester are generally a dependable option — paired with a sleeping bag rated for near-freezing temperatures forms a solid base setup. A few additional factors are worth planning around: Confirm the rear seats fold flat before purchasing. Not all compact SUVs offer a genuinely level load space, and this matters over an extended period of use. Insulate the windows with reflective sunshades or fitted foam panels to retain heat and maintain privacy. Check local freedom camping regulations, which vary by district council and are enforced with fines in some areas. Allow for ventilation by leaving a window slightly open, as condensation can build up quickly in a sealed vehicle overnight. Use holiday parks or DOC sites for facilities — many allow non-guests to access showers and toilets for a small fee. Prioritise insulation from below, such as a sleeping mat, since heat loss through the vehicle floor is often more significant than ambient air temperature. This has been tested firsthand during repeated ski season trips to Mt Ruapehu, where sub-zero overnight temperatures make preparation especially important. A well-insulated compact SUV with the right sleeping setup handled these conditions comfortably, reinforcing that vehicle choice and insulation matter more in colder regions than budget or brand. Best Cars for Backpackers: After helping Kiwis and backpackers find affordable vehicles, we've consistently found that older Honda and Toyota models offer the best balance of reliability, fuel efficiency, maintenance costs, and resale value. Some in-depth examples below: Vehicle Purchase Price Quick Resale Value Fuel Economy Honda CR-V $3,000-$6,000 $3,000-$4,800 Good Honda Accord $4,000-$6,000 $3,000-$5,000 Very Good Toyota Corolla $4,000-$6,000 $3,000-$5,000 Excellent Insurance, WOF and Car Servicing Costs in New Zealand: 1. Insurance: Insurance is one expense you shouldn't skip, even on a budget backpacker vehicle. Basic cover typically costs around $30-$50 per fortnight, depending on your age, driving history, location and vehicle. Popular options include State Insurance, Star Insure, and Tower Insurance, all of which offer cover suitable for travellers and working holiday makers. While it's an added cost, insurance can save you from a major financial headache if you're involved in an accident during your New Zealand road trip. 2. Warrant of Fitness (WOF): When buying a car, always look for one with a fresh WOF. It provides peace of mind and reduces the likelihood of unexpected repair bills early on. Before reselling your vehicle, it's often worth spending around $80 on a new WOF, especially if you've owned the car for 6-12 months. A fresh WOF can make the vehicle more attractive to buyers and help you achieve a quicker sale. If you're leaving New Zealand soon, book the inspection a few weeks in advance so you have time to shop around for affordable repairs if anything needs attention. For shorter trips of less than six months, many backpackers can still resell their vehicle successfully without renewing the WOF, provided there is still reasonable time remaining on the current certificate.   3. Servicing One of the biggest advantages of older Japanese vehicles such as Honda CR-Vs, Honda Accords and Toyota Corollas is their relatively low maintenance costs. For a full service, expect to pay anywhere from $150-$600, depending on the vehicle and the work required. If you're only staying in New Zealand for a few months and the vehicle has been regularly maintained, a simple oil and filter change may be all that's needed, often costing around $150. For longer trips of 6-12 months, investing in a full service is a smart way to reduce the risk of breakdowns and make the vehicle easier to resell when your adventure comes to an end. Backpacker Tip: Search for well-reviewed independent mechanics on Facebook, Google Reviews or local community groups. Smaller workshops often provide excellent service at a lower cost than larger chains. VTNZ is always a safe option should you choose a larger franchise.   How to Sell Your Car Before Leaving New Zealand: One of the biggest concerns backpackers have isn't buying a car, it's selling it before their flight home. The good news is that if you've chosen a reliable vehicle, kept it maintained, and planned ahead, selling a car in New Zealand is usually much easier than people expect. The most common mistake travellers make is waiting until the week before departure to start thinking about resale. As your flight gets closer, your negotiating power disappears, and buyers know it. Start planning your exit strategy from the day you buy the vehicle. 1. List early: If possible, list your car 2-4 weeks before leaving New Zealand. You can continue driving it while advertising it and simply include an available handover date in your listing. Many backpackers on Reddit recommend selling early and, if necessary, using public transport, domestic flights, or a short-term rental for the final days of their trip rather than panic-selling a vehicle at a huge discount. 2. Facebook Marketplace: For budget vehicles under $7,000, Facebook Marketplace is usually the fastest way to find buyers. Most backpackers, working holiday travellers, and budget-conscious locals browse Marketplace daily looking for reliable Hondas and Toyotas. You can also consider: Trade Me Backpacker Facebook groups Hostel noticeboards BackpackerBoard NZ Word-of-mouth through travellers and hostels A clean vehicle with decent photos, a fresh WOF, and a realistic price will often attract interest within days. 3. Make the car easy to buy: - Give it a wash and vacuum.  - Keep all servicing receipts.  - Take photos during daylight.  - Clearly show the mileage, WOF expiry, and registration expiry.  - Be honest about any faults. Backpackers are often shopping with limited budgets, so transparency builds trust and saves everyone time. Don't expect to get all your money back, but definitely try for the best deal, it's a very fine line. Backup options include selling to a dealer, using a vehicle buying service, or trading the car back to a dealership that offers buy-back programs.  This is why I always recommend asking about buy-back options when purchasing a vehicle. Even if you never use it, having a guaranteed buyer can remove a lot of stress as your departure date approaches.   My Backpacker Tip Buy a reliable Honda or Toyota, keep it clean, get a fresh WOF if you've owned it for a while, and start advertising at least a few weeks before your flight. If you price it fairly and stay realistic about resale value, there's a very good chance you'll find a buyer long before you're standing in Auckland Airport wondering what to do with your car. That's the difference between a stress-free road trip and a last-minute fire sale. And that is it! Ready to start your New Zealand road trip? At Northwest Motors, we specialise in affordable, reliable vehicles that are ideal for backpackers and working holiday travellers. Every vehicle is independently inspected and selected for reliability, helping you spend less time worrying about breakdowns and more time exploring New Zealand. We also offer buy-back options to give you that peace of mind, we've been through it too!

Step-by-Step Guide: Prep: Park in the middle of the bay and close all windows. I recommend popping your wiper blades up before you do anything else. This ensures the glass underneath gets clean and prevents the wipers from trapping soap scum or damaging the rubber. Rinse the bay brush: Turn the dial to Rinse and spray off the communal foam brush before letting it touch anything. (I highly recommend bringing your own microfiber wash mitt instead of using the bay brush to prevent scratching your paint). You can hold the brush over the car to let the thick soap gurgle and drip onto the vehicle, or fill your own bucket with it. Clean wheels and tires: Select Tire Cleaner or use the high-pressure soap to spray down your wheels and tires first so heavy brake dust does not splash onto clean panels (Only apply this when the rims are cool). Bring a separate, cheap microfiber mitt or cheap tire brush from home just for this step. Never use your main paint mitt on the wheels, as heavy brake dust will most likely embed in the cloth and scratch your car later. Pre-soak or high-pressure soap: Apply soap starting from the bottom and working your way up, or use a pre-soak setting to break down stubborn bugs and road grime.  Bring a two-bucket setup (one with clean water, one with car soap) or use a single bucket filled with the bay's soap. Scrub: Scrub the vehicle gently with your own wash mitt or the cleaned foam brush, moving from the roof down to the lower panels. Work with gravity: start with the roof and hood, then move down to the lower panels. Quick tip: Flip your wash mitt to a clean side for every single panel so you aren't dragging trapped dirt across the car. High-pressure rinse: Switch the dial back to Rinse and thoroughly spray the car from top to bottom, making sure to flush out all soap, door jambs, and wheel arches.  Protect and spot-free rinse: Apply Wax if desired, then finish with the Spot-Free Rinse to prevent mineral spots when dry.  Quick tip: Do not skip Spot-Free Rinse, especially on dark-coloured vehicles; it uses pure, reverse-osmosis (deionised) water. It is the only way to avoid nasty white mineral scaling. Dry: Drive out of the bay to a designated parking space (or the vacuum station) and dry the surface using a clean microfiber towel. Quick tip: Mist the wet panels with a dedicated spray wax or ceramic drying aid first, then use a large, plush microfiber waffle-weave towel. The drying aid acts as a lubricant so the towel glides seamlessly without creating microscopic scratches. Always remember: Reddit is your friend, there are so many tips and solutions tailored to your specific car or paint that I cannot cover in this post (I probably don't even know it to be honest)